Bolt Neighborhood

Looking Back Local 2011

-April

Looking back on last year I wanted to share some tidbits about 2011.

We are so very lucky to have such talented folks live in and around this fine city of Portland. Not surprisingly some best selling items of last year were from locals.

The most popular pattern of 2011 was The Crepe dress by Colette.  (Pause for applause and joyous cheering)! This dress can be sewn up in so many different combinations very dressy to totally casual. I think that is a sign of a great pattern when it can be so versatile......always a hit. 

Four other Collette Patterns were among the top sellers of 2011, including Negroni, Violet, Sencha and Ginger. Most of those patterns are labeled as beginner, and we think that is great that so many beginning sewers are taking the plunge into garment sewing. We look forward to seeing some of those finished garments uploaded onto our flicker pool, or shown off in person.

In the books category Modern Log Cabin Quilting by Susan Beal got the top pick among our local bunch.  The interview with Susan was one of my favorite posts on Bolt's blog last year. I love to see the studios and get an insight into other sewers spaces and places. 

Another contender was Elizabeth Hartman's A Practical Guide to Patchwork  (Elizabeth is coming out with another book Modern Patch Work this year that is on our radar). In case you did not know Elizabeth is one of the stellar teachers down at our sister shop Modern Domestic. You could learn to quilt from the author herself.

If you feel like 2012 is the year you are going to do more sewing, or learn to sew, any of these titles would be a great place to get started.

If you missed out on any of these great patterns and books, stop by and see what your missing.

Happy Sewing in 2012!

Just In

--gina

We're back!  Holiday down time has been enjoyed, inventory has been counted and we're ready for a new year.  We received some great new pieces on tubes right before we closed up a couple weeks ago.  Generally the pieces on tubes are end runs from designers.  These tend to be more apparel appropriate fabrics.  They're really fun for me to pick out for a couple of reasons.  The first being that I have no idea at all what I'll be shown when I meet with my reps and I can imagine these pieces made up into a wider variety of things than the quilting weight cotton prints.  The black and cream piece above I envisioned as a vintage Vogue pattern of some sort, maybe a 1940s era design, with simple lines, or maybe the Colette Peony dress or a simple pencil skirt....so many options!

A few more interesting pieces--a cream, soft wool with these mauve flowers every so often.  I love the combination of a wool with tropical looking flowers.  The piece next to it is a two-faced denim and golden velveteen.  Oh my.  Really, who doesn't want some of that in their life?  We just may be seeing a sample whipped up with this soon...stay tuned!  We have a number of lovely wools still in stock, many of which would stitch up beautifully into a cozy hooded scarf.  Remember that fantastic project?

We're excited for this coming year.  We have some new things planned and we're bringing back some other things--like the Organization of the Month program.  I'll be posting soon about January's organization and how you can help us support them.  Happy New Year to you all!

Sewaholic's Pendrell blouse

--Meredith

I looked in my closet the other day and realized I was bored with everything inside. Don't you hate that! I need a wardrobe boost in the worst possible way. Looking for inspiration in the patterns, I picked up Sewaholic's Pendrell blouse. This one doesn't have ANY closures, similar to my other favorite blouse pattern, Colette's Sorbetto (I have expressed much love here and here). Which really just means it comes together quickly. Perfect!

I have been dying to sew with some Liberty of London. Gina has brought in some stunners and I picked up two different cuts. I know they're revered and now I know why--beautiful drape, striking designs, and a pleasure to sew with. Worth every penny for that wardrobe boost. With such a fine fabric, be sure to pick up some Microtex Sharp machine needles to get the best stitch quality.

I love the 40's details on the sleeve; the tucks provide a slightly exaggerated shape. And they are set in the princess seam not an armscye, another easy installation. Because of the seams there are no darts! Take your time on the gentle curve of the princess seam to prevent stretch or distortion. If you're nervous, do a staystitch along both pieces first.

Easy shaping and fairly flattering, I've dressed it up with a skirt or gone casual with jeans. It's a great staple I could see making more than one of. I'm excited to try Sewaholic's other patterns (especially they're new jacket pattern!)

 

Colette's Beignet Skirt

--Meredith

I was trying to decide what to wear to Colette Pattern's Book Launch party last week. I had every intention of making a beautiful navy Peony dress or remaking the Crepe wrap in our fun denim/hemp blend, but the week simply got a way from me. Which is kinda how I feel about November in general. Anyone agree?

I wanted something fun and pretty so I turned to my Beignet skirt. Which is exactly how I feel about it--fun and pretty. The high-waisted style is flattering, as I have just learned over time that while I love those beautiful Japanese styles, I look like I'm wearing a sack. I need waist definition! 

Here is a pattern with smart details inside and out--side seam pockets, faced waist and button placket with a full lining. For this I chose a Denyse Schmidt voile. LOVE.

I used a topstitch in a contrast color for a (mock) flat felled look typically found in denim wear and went ahead and stitched buttonholes in the same. Went a little nautical with anchor buttons!

This skirt would be a stunner in a lovely light wool or in a chic black cotton!

Sarai and her Colette Sewing Handbook

-Meredith

Sarai was one of the first people I met when I moved to Portland. We had a mutual friend in common (Ms Gertie) and I figured she would know all the things I needed to know about my new town, mainly the best places to buy fabric. I was right!  Last summer she was heavy in the pattern testing stage of her book, The Colette Sewing Handbook, and being without work gave me plenty of time to help by working my way through the garments. The flawless design was already there. As a tester, I confirmed the pieces worked and fit together paying special attention to the written instructions and diagrams to help ensure they were as clear and helpful as possible. I mostly worked from fabric I had or muslin, thinking that I would go back and remake my favorites in proper fabric.  I'm so grateful I had the opportunity to help Sarai on such a massive endeavor, even in such a small way, because she is truly a kind and generous person.  And what a resource she created! 5 NEW patterns (a skirt, a blouse, and 3 dresses), each designed to enhance the 5 fundamentals covered such as fit, fabric, and finishing. As we celebrate the release of her publication, I thought we'd get to know the woman behind the patterns a little better.

How did you decide on the name "Colette" for your pattern company?

The short answer is that the company is named after my kitty, Colette. She's a very elegant little lady.

.

Colette (the cat) was named after the French writer, Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette. I love Colette's novels, and there's something about her femininity, eye for beauty, and love for life that I wanted to be part of the company. So I guess I'd say the company was ultimately named after the writer. 

What's your favorite part of the design process?

I've always liked the earliest stages, doing research and coming up with lots of ideas. It's fun to just free your mind to come up with new ideas before whittling them down to the ones that will actually work. 

But I also like the final stages, and doing things like photography and styling, coming up with the final presentation. It feels good, like you're putting the final polish on something you've put a lot of work into.

What do you love about your life in Portland? About having your studio in the SE?

Portland is an amazing place to live, and there's almost too much good stuff to name! I love how green and beautiful it is. I love how nice everyone is here, and how much creative talent there is. Having a small business like mine can be a little isolating because you're not always surrounded with people, and that goes double for writing a book! So it's great to have so many people to reach out to and collaborate with. I think all the rain and darkness inspires us to be more creative with all our indoor time.

I've lived in SE since moving to Portland, and I love it here! So I was thrilled when I found a studio space nearby, and now I can walk to work every day. I love my little studio, but I must say that the walk is the absolute best thing. I love having the time twice a day to be outside and take in the world around me. Plus there are some fantastic bars and restaurants between home and work, and there's nothing better than walking five minutes to a fantastic bar to meet a friend after a long day.

Thanks for chatting, Sarai!

Bolt and Modern Domestic are proud to be sponsoring a party to celebrate the release of The Colette Sewing Handbook!  On Thursday, November 17th, the party will take place at Ford Food & Drink starting at 8:00pm. Come enjoy giveaways, beverages, crafty fun, and show off your best Colette sewing. I *hopefully* will be wearing my new Peony dress. Don't hold me to that though!

Prepping for Halloween

--Meredith

Halloween is just around the corner and we all know what that means...costumes! There are loads of great ideas and free patterns in countless blogs to help inspire you.

Tulle can create such an ethereal effect. This notoriously shifty fabric can be used for a simple and fun tutu, great for enhancing costumes like storybook characters or favorite animals and bugs. Or use some of our felt and shiny ribbon with tulle or netting and transform your little one into the cutest pumpkin!

Boning comes in handy for a number of costume ideas--think crazy vampire collars or Rocky Horror-style bodice shaping. Even this bat costume uses some with felt to create the wing shape!

Check out the various weights of interfacing including one of the heaviest, Timtex. The structure would help shape a hat, collar, bodice, or other design detail that stuck away from the body. And it's fusible!

Need a little shine for wings, dresses, and capes? In addition to these more subtle colors, we also have rayon lining fabric in a variety of shades. 

One of my favs--glitter rick-rack! Embellish any character with this flashy trim that's perfect for Halloween night. You can also add it to the tulle tutu for extra sparkle.

A superhero cape (courtesy of Ellen Luckett Baker, author of 1,2,3 Sew) would be fun for a night of trick or treating and for playing year 'round. Along with the fabric, don't forget the velcro. This easy closure is sold by the yard so you can get exactly how much you need.

Felt is a Halloween staple; it's easy to use, doesn't fray, and we have it by the yard. Pirates, monkeys, and bees--oh my!

And don't forget a Trick or Treat bag! I have a tutorial over on the MD blog that would be easy to customize with applique, fabric markers, or just two awesome fabrics!

What's New: Fabric on tubes and snowman dish toweling

--gina

This past week we received some of the most interesting fabrics I think we’ve ever had.  One of my favs is the big soft wool in the center of the pic, with the floral print in washed out colors.  It would make the prettiest of coats or pillows.  The abstract looking sweater knit on the far left is another one of my current favorites.  The colors are gorgeous: soft grey and rich blue-purples.  It has a delicate hand and an uneven weave, making it that much more interesting.  The stripe is a yard-dyed piece with a soft hand and medium weight and the light colored piece on the far right is a printed, cotton corduroy.  It would make the sweetest of coat linings for a wee one, or a fun skirt for fall and winter!

 

Some new cotton prints from Diawabo came in last week.  Some are show here with the cutest dish toweling ever: snowmen on both edges.  It makes me grin. 

We're chock full of all sorts of apparel fabric right now.  Lots of great pieces to chose from, and with the sale right around the corner....I'd say it's time to start figuring out your winter projects if you haven't already!

 

 

Making your own jeans

--Meredith 

Making your own jeans is not difficult. Sure, some of the techniques involved may seem advanced, such as a fly front and flat felled seams. But really the most difficult part is finding a good pattern. Enter the Canadian pattern company, Jalie. I've worked several times with their knit patterns with great success. I find the sizing to be dependable and true and the grading accurate. In other words, the pattern is proportional sized both up and down, providing a well fitting garment. 

Look inside several pairs of store-bought jeans for tips, suggestions, and guidance when it comes time to craft your pair. If you're nervous, practice the fly front on some scrap before moving on to the real garment as a way to prevent any mishaps. Don't use a wimpy dress zipper! We've got brass teeth jeans zippers in several lengths, including 5" and 7", and in several shades including navy, black and white.

Bolt has other supplies needed for custom-making your own jeans. Your pair will never look homemade with the proper gold topstitching and Gutermann provides a heavier thread in just the right shade. And pick up a blue, black, or white shade of 100% polyester all purpose thread for construction.

Now for the denim. Sure, a good cotton with a smidge of lycra will work flawlessly everytime, but for a truly unique pair, try our Cotton and Bamboo blend. Or be tempted by the almost black 100% cotton. I am!

My first pair is 100% cotton and I did taper the leg from the original pattern. By measuring an older pair of mine with a leg shape I liked, I could get the look I wanted without having to alter them after.

I also didn't do a true flat felled seam because the seam allowance was only 3/8" and that would give a funny finished look with TINY seams. So I did a fake one--simply stitched my seam, press, and topstitch from the right side approx 3/8" from the original seam. Also the waistband was supposed to be cut on the bias with a center back seam, which only created a gap at my center back. I removed it and recut one long piece NOT on the bias and was much happier. This pair is not perfect, as they were intended to be my muslin and I wasn't sure if they would ever see the light of day. But I love the fit and cut. Now on to my next pair!

 

 

Colette Peony

--Meredith

 

Erica, my friend and fellow co-worker and teacher at MD, has been whipping up versions of Colette's new pattern, Peony. With the flattering boatneck and classic line (plus--gotta love pockets!), it's not hard to see why. Erica was kind enough to answer some questions so we could get to know the pattern a little better.

What kind of fabric did you use?

 For the three-quarter sleeve version, I used some lovely striped cotton shirting I found at Bolt. The belt is made with cotton that has a little bit of stretch. For the short-sleeved version, I chose a cute cotton print I found for next-to-nothing in the sale section. This cotton is closer to quilting-weight, which I normally wouldn't use in garment construction, but it had enough drape and a nice enough hand that I thought I might be able to get away with it. I think it worked out ok!

Why were you inspired by the pattern?

I love the vintage-inspired designs Sarai creates for Colette Patterns, and I always adore a good boat neck! I thought this pattern would be really versatile, because with the three-quarter sleeves it makes a great Fall/Winter dress, and with the shorter sleeves it's perfect for Spring/Summer. Plus, I am a sucker for dresses with pockets. 

What can someone learn from making this pattern?

There are so many great skill-building opportunities in this pattern for a beginning sewist. You can learn how to put in an invisible zipper, how to sew side-seam pockets, how to do fancy-sounding things like understitching, and if you're feeling brave, you could embellish the neckline with some piping!

 

Thanks Erica! For those who would like a little help with the pattern, zipper installation, or fit, Erica is offering Peony as a class at MD Wednesdays in November. The expansion will be done so be one of the first to take a class in the new space! And now until Monday October 14th is the time to take advantage of the Expansion Sale! 10% off all BERNINA and bernette machines, plus special pricing on models like the classroom 440s and a sewing and embroidery machine--the 640!

 

Jacket Weather and Seam finishes

--Meredith

I hate to admit it but the weather has officially turned to fall and we are full swing into jacket weather. Perhaps a new outer layer would help ease your transition? My closet is full of 3/4 and full-sleeved light sweaters but I'm lacking a good outerwear piece for the crisp climate. Bolt has a great variety of jacket and coat patterns--new ones from a beautiful Japanese pattern company for both adults and kids or Wendy Mullin's Built by Wendy: Coats and Jackets has great customizable options. Erica is teaching sessions of Indygo Junction's Midtown Trench down at MD for those who want and need the extra guidance. I went with SEWN's Upline Jacket because I liked the collar, the raglan sleeves, and the zipper front.

I chose a bright color in a heavier cotton for the outer fabric and a beautiful bold Amy Butler print for the lining. I also chose one of our brass teeth separating zippers for the front and couldn't be happier with the substantial effect it gives.

Plus, there's topstitching and a back belt detail.

The pattern doesn't do a bag lining that would hide all the seams, but rather flat-lines the entire body and encourages you to finish the raw edge in your prefered manner. There a number of ways to do so. I decided on a Hong Kong (or bias bound) seam finish which I think gives such a professional look to the garment. It was quite time consuming but worth it, I think. And now I'm ready for fall!

**Newsflash** Bolt just received a shipment of Anna Maria Horner bias tapes and they are YUMMY. What beautiful bindings, Hong Kong and otherwise, these would make!

But since we're on the subject of seam finishes (and maybe you think I'm nutty to have finished all of those seams separately with bias tape), what are other ways to finish raw edges? For your perusal--the overlock stitch edge, the pinked edge, and the serged edge.

The serged edge requires the use of a serger, but can trim and finish in one fell swoop. Don't own a serger? Most sewing machines come with an overlock stitch that looks like a mock serge, similar to stitch #8 in the picture below.

You'll get the best results out of the overlock stitch if you sew it with an overlock foot on your machine. If your machine doesn't sew an overlock stitch, you can also finish your edge with a simple zig-zag stitch.

I do love a good pinked edge sometimes. It's so vintage and classic. Instead of shears, I usually reach for my rotary cutter. I replaced the straight blade with a pinked one and now I can easily roll pinked edges. Don't forget the self-healing mat; you don't want to damage the blade or the table underneath.